Technical cooperation is a win-win transaction sum

This year’s Basel watch show , I think a lot of people certainly impressed one thing, that is, Breitling and Tudor exchange movements , and why everyone is very concerned about this matter children, even I also felt a little weird? Because in the past years, the brands are either self-produced movement busy, get busy market, it has been a long time without the big two interchangeable main thing there was movement, not to mention there are foreign media broke the news in recent Breitling you may want to sell, this happens this time, many people began to suspect that Rolex is not to take over the Breitling. Of course, this is ultimately a rumor, but also reminds me of a thing, is to watchmaking circles seems to have been for a long time does not appear so big “scale” of technology sharing, and in recent years because of the market, more and more brands tend to self-produced movement and apply for their own patent, or emphasize the exclusive, and thus establish a brand image.

 Tudor MT5813 automatic chronograph movement (from the Breitling B01)

Despite our popular, is Breitling exchange Dili rudder movement, but from the official point of view, is to develop, because in fact not directly interchangeable, each fact, has done a lot of changes. This is very interesting, the development of cooperation between the last century, all the major brands, is a very normal thing, and therefore the birth of many to this day still has prominent products, such as born in the 50s of last century, a thickness of only 1.64 mm ultra-thin manual movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre , Replica Watches  Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin cooperative development. Another example is the 1960s, Breitling, Hamilton , Buren, TAG Heuer together to develop the first self-winding chronograph movement Caliber 11. In addition, there are many examples, some of which are still used because, so to disclose too much.

Jaeger manual movement 803 thin (thickness of only 1.64 mm)

After the Group of watchmaking were integrated technical cooperation have occurred within the group, the first for a few examples. In 2013, Tissot and ETA to develop the Group’s most important basic movement Powermatic 80, was when the long power become a hot topic in mechanical watchmaking basic function of the past, the company’s main ETA movement, dynamic storage are 42 hours or 48 hours, while the movement may Powermatic 80 with 80-hour power, greatly improving the everyday practicality. This movement was used in Tissot Luxury watches TAG To Series, the market is full of doubts about this movement at first, but today this movement has become a lot Swatch under our brands as standard. In Tissot launched a year later, according to different brand positioning, Replica Breitling  with different levels of movement, assigned to Mido , Han Milton and Certina brands such use, and formed a certain gradient in the price.

Tissot Movement 80

More than that, in 2016, ETA also offers a higher version 80 of the movement, the use of silicon springs 80 movement, first of all mounted on Mido and Tissot among both brands, and to promote, as the year 80 Tissot movement in the momentum, we have reason to believe that with mature technology, silicon springs will also be in the near future, become the same movement as the 80 Swatch Group movement of the main standard, but it is used only in relatively high-end products.

Mido Caliber 80 silicon balance spring movement

Speaking of silicon springs, long before the Swatch Group have been using silicon springs, Breguet , Blancpain , Jaquet Droz such as a public high-end brands are in use, and the Omega of the main movement of 8500 and 9300 series movement, are using silicon springs. As of last year, dropping silicon springs, and this year’s Longines Record Series monocrystalline silicon balance spring, we believe that this is a longitudinal technique Swatch Group extends from top brands up to ordinary brands, from high technology to ordinary silicon silicon material, silicon springs according to different levels of itself, to be distributed among all levels of the Group’s brands, thus completing a large-scale technical upgrade.

 Omega Nivachoc shock

Another detail is that the main force of the Omega coaxial movement, are used Nivachoc shock absorbers, the shock absorbers at the time also considered to be the exclusive Omega, Omega although not explicitly emphasize the shock absorbers, but it does to some degree, the Omega autonomous movement and other movement area separated. This year Longines launch Record series watch , the surprise is to see this watch Longines also used Nivachoc shock absorbers, and has been used in Longines before the movement have been confirmed, even in Hamilton It has also been used. This new technology extends downward, to let the people – and in the end under the brand Swatch Group has a higher price and technological content.

Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC four digits are used to display the calendar year

In addition to internal Swatch Group shared a lot of technical outside, Richemont, LVMH Group, KERING, internal watch factory technology sharing also exist, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre 868 calendar module and the Palais 51613 Movement calendar module, some Richemont brands tourbillon is Cartier tourbillon designer Kasapi design.

Technical cooperation to a certain extent, can allow the market to enjoy the benefits of scale in order to cultivate the market, brands can take to get funding, while improving quality, is clearly a sum of wishful trading.

Replica Rolex crown the head of the more positive the more valuable?

Including, but not limited to, the Rolex watch Friends group which has a faith. That is, ” the pious people will get up a head Logo watch, the more devotion, Logo more positive ,” This is the most serious in the Rolex inside the circle.

“Crown positive” as long as the seller in the description which add that much easier to sell a little, and even a lot of money on the table plus friends.

So why the Rolex crown of the head towards the difference will be different?

In 1926, Rolex created the first waterproof and dustproof watch, so watch technology to move forward. Dubbed “Oyster” Oyster watch with a closed case, to provide the best protection for the movement. 1927 Mercedes Gleitze wearing a Rolex Oyster watch successfully crossed the English Channel. Rolex take a hit, you can say no no Oyster Rolex , back cover full national patent marking.

For the water table is concerned, the weakest place is the part of the table. Cover, table mirror once after a good factory assembled, disassembled consumers basically will not go, so long-term, effectively maintain the waterproof effect. But not necessarily part of the table, when we need to regulate the use of time by table, by hand on the table to replenish their energy chain. To pull out the table back and forth, rotating the crown, the crown is pressed, the slot is exposed, the moisture might get inside the internal case, irreparable damage to the dial, the movement, the pointer.

To waterproof, begin to install a “watertight casing” in the case.

Waterproof casing is isolated and requires a special tool to rotate it to the case.

After take off, complete waterproof casing on long like this. 2 is the threaded portion and the case of convergence, the threaded part 1 and the crown portion of the adapter. There is waterproof rubber texture middle circle is responsible for 1.2 waterproof.

The threads on the table (including crown above), a threaded pipe water, the case of the respective threads are produced in batches, so that when these three components assembled together, which is difficult to put on the table Crown is upward. 3 random factors exist here, Rolex produce 70-80 million watches a year, you can calculate how much trouble to pick out the three best matches in millions of parts inside?

Crown is working with the chance of errors is only a matter.


Rolex then have the ability to put his head on the table in the factory when they are made up of it?
This requirement is fully meet, but there are a lot of follow-up questions.

As mentioned earlier, currently used in the production process is Rolex the thread on the table (including crown above), water pipe thread, the thread of the case are each produced in batches, and the three parts are assembled together.

If the Rolex crown is not well in advance, but in the latter part of his head, waterproof casing, after assembly and then make up a good case, we can ensure that each factory’s watch crown are facing up.

But Rolex logo on the crown is not a simple laser engraving, printing is not flat, but metal three-dimensional relief. So after assembled, reworked logo will not only greatly increase the cost, in addition can also damage the original case of polishing, thread, more harm than good.

More important point is, it will add texture waterproof rubber ring on the table, waterproof casing waterproof table. Rubber shrinkage occurs, expansion, extrusion receive deformed. So even guarantee a perfect match threaded rubber ring is absolutely impossible to guarantee a perfect match, put the crown on the table naturally not guarantee been facing up.

For a perfect hide it impossible demands costly low rate of return on any production-scale enterprises it is impossible to accomplish.


When buying Levis Li Weisi jeans, possibly after the buy side pocket flag is “R” version of the subject, instead of the usual “Levis” word. Here the reason for causing “R” standard, it is because in the production effect can be counted, it said that every 1000 there is such a pair of jeans.

Rolex crown to crown the positive and R Levis jeans label Li Weisi’s, like, in fact, are special industrial product production. Because different, that was regarded as a fetish of some friends obsessed table.

So, the Rolex crown of the head of the more positive the more valuable it?

Certainly not in! Crown being, of course, is a good thing, after all, look better. But the crown is not correct, it does not mean that the watch is bad lot. And, as a product of industrialization, the crown positive Rolex will be produced at the factory every day, although with a certain scarcity, but does not have can not be copied.

The key point is that, once the crown positive Rolex is widely considered to be “premium”, the consumer must add money. So hundred percent late someone will be modified, and this modification will reduce the scarcity of positive Rolex crown, the latter will become an ordinary price.

So, like the crown positive there is no problem, there are tables Friends of obsessive-compulsive disorder a little add a little money to buy no problem, but spend a lot of time, money and energy to carry out top-faith pursuit of being the crown, we must think twice ah!

The same can be extended to “60 seconds at the time, the minute hand must be hundred percent aligned with the mark”, ‘0:00 every day, the calendar must switch on time, the difference between a few minutes will not work,’ “mechanical watches can not have more than three seconds per day error”. If there is such a request, I beg you, do not buy or mechanical watches, the brand and sales miss it! ! !